With a brush and lots of water I try to remove residual substances by scrubbing with care. Personally, I prefer using alcohol first, followed by the degreaser. Next, start cleaning the pad using isopropyl alcohol and or a degreasing agent such as Chante Claire. The first method is very simple and involves washing the pad.The washing method is fine if the pad has been contaminated recently and the oil hasn’t been absorbed.įirst, with a piece of absorbent paper, dab the surface trying absorb as much oil as possible. There are several ways to clean them and we’ll start with the least invasive but also the least effective. In this way we eliminate all oil residue that would cause dirt and dust to stick to the mechanism, and damage the piston movement.Īt this point we move on to the pads. Clean the two pistons, removing them individually. Using the isopropyl alcohol, intended for cleaning brakes or, if not available, ethyl alcohol, carefully clean the external as well as the internal surfaces of the caliper. Therefore, we must clean everything with care. The oil, mixed with dust, creates a paste which can block the pistons. This will help remove the oily layer from the rotor.ģ) Caliper cleaning: the oil has also dirtied the brake caliper. Use a slightly rough but strong cotton cloth while cleaning. If we have one, a good cleaning with a degreasing detergent and power sprayer doesn’t hurt it helps remove oil from the cooling vents. To clean the rotor, we use isopropyl alcohol, a chemical intended for cleaning rotors or, as an alternative, ethyl alcohol. Therefore, it’s important to clean them attentively. In addition, oil tends to remain trapped in the rotor’s cooling vents, with the risk that it will contaminate the pads after cleaning. This layer of burnt oil and dirt must be removed. Just the same, the heat and the dirt can form a blackish layer on the braking surface. Unlike the brake pads, the metal rotor doesn’t absorb oil. For “The One” system, the pads are removed by unscrewing the cotter pin and pulling the pads towards the rear of the caliper.Ģ) Cleaning the rotor: after removing the wheel we can clean the rotor. To remove the pads, each model has its own procedure. This is an utter disaster!ġ) Removing the wheel and extracting the pads: we begin by removing the wheel and the pads from the brake caliper. Brake caliper, adapter bracket and rotor are all covered and the oil has caused dust, which in this season abounds on the trails, to adhere to the surface. The loss of oil was significant and has contaminated the lower left area of the fork. However, as in our case, since the pads are new or still in good condition, throwing them away would be a shame it would be worth trying to clean them. If the pads are almost completely worn, it’s better to replace them. The first thing to do is evaluate whether it’s worth intervening. So, it is difficult to ride in this condition… The oil, contaminating the pads, has made the front brake inefficient even when squeezing the brake lever tightly, the wheel continues to turn. This is not an insignificant contamination suspension oil is extremely difficult to remove. The result is a front brake that doesn’t work as it should. The problemĭue to a worn washer at the base of the outer leg, the fork’s oil has escaped, inexorably soaking the rotor and the brake caliper. Today, we’ll see some tricks of the trade to restore the use of contaminated pads. It’s impossible to use the bicycle in these conditions so something must be done. When this happens, the pads absorb the lubricant with disastrous results instead of braking, the pads slide on the rotor, causing inefficient braking.
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